Episodes

On Episode 130, I sit down with Italian rock climber, Jacopo Larcher. We caught up while both in Spain and climbing at Siurana. Jacopo was on a mission to climb La Rambla (9a), which he did, and I was on a mission to pull off the first international trip with the Enormobaby, which we did. … Continue reading "Episode 130- Jacopo Larcher – So Many Routes, So Many Dreams"

On Episode 129 of the Enormocast, I sit down with consummate alpinist, Steve Swensen. Steve’s career in the big mountains has spanned decades. As a kid, Steve dreamed of flying to the stars as an Apollo astronaut, but he chose to climb as close to space as possible instead. While he has climbed worldwide, his … Continue reading "Episode 129: Steve Swenson – Almost an Astronaut."

On Episode 128, I dig back in the archives for a live show recorded last year at the American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic in Devils Lake, WI. One rainy, soggy, muddy night, three guest joined me for a panel discussion on the colorful history of the upper Midwest’s most storied cliff. Guidebook author Jay Knower, … Continue reading "Episode 128: Live from Devils Lake Craggin’ Classic"

On Episode 27 of the Enormocast, I sit down with blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer. Erik found climbing just in time to save him from a miserable existence in the dark safe place where taking chances and adventure are out of the question. Instead, Erik learned to push against his boundaries and seek fearful situations to … Continue reading "Episode 127: Erik Weihenmayer – Learning by Letting Go."

On Episode 126 of the Enormocast, I sit down with boulderer, sport climber, doctor, father, husband, and…ninja, Noah Kaufman. We discuss his up-coming Wolfpack Ninja Tour, how the whole ninja thing started, but then we get to climbing. Noah discusses why there is, in fact, more to life than climbing. He waxes poetic, and a bit … Continue reading "Episode 126: Noah Kaufman – Not Just a Ninja."

On Episode 125, I sit down in two different hotel rooms with young boulderer and budding tradster, Nina Williams. Nina takes us through an early cheating incident that formed the basis of why and how she climbs to this day. She walks us down the road of a pro climber with its pressures and requirements. … Continue reading "Episode 125: Nina Williams Comes Clean."

On Episode 124 of the Enormcast, I sit down with sport climbing legend, Boone Speed. Like the Royal We here at the Enormocast, Boone came into climbing on the very cusp of the sport climbing revolution, but he quickly found himself in an overly steep cave in American Fork, Utah bolting what would become the hardest … Continue reading "Episode 124: Boone Speed – Climbing Creative."

On Episode 123 of the Enormocast, I it down in Cody, Wyoming at the Cody Ice Fest with alpinist Kitty Calhoun. Kitty grew up in “society” in South Carolina, but quickly learned to live simply and love the mountains. The late 70s found her bumbling up ice climbs in Vermont and dreaming of big peaks. … Continue reading "Episode 123: Kitty Calhoun – The Mountains are Calling."

On Episode 122 of the Enormocast, I sit down rather early in the morning with the “Ambassador to The Nose” Hans Florine. Hans holds the speed record for The Nose on El Capitan with Alex Honnold at 2:23:46- basically, less time than you spent on Facebook yesterday. But Hollywood Hans has been a freewheeling Cali climber … Continue reading "Episode 122: Hans Florine – A Need for Speed (Climbing)."

On Episode 121 of the Enormocast, I sit down with friend, musician, and former band-mate, Chris Parker. Chris and I discuss his ambitions with both music and climbing, and why its so tough to be addicted to both. His mission in life is to reconcile the all-consuming passion for climbing with the discipline and demands … Continue reading "Episode 121: Christopher Parker – Went Down To The Crossroads."

On Episode 120, the Enormocast REBROADCASTS Kris Hampton’s interview with Miguel and Dario Ventura of the infamous and beloved Miguels Pizza in the Red River Gorge. Kris reached out with this interview because though he posted it over at his podcast, The Power Company Podcast, he thought it had just the right feel for an … Continue reading "Episode 120: Kris Hampton, Miguel and Dario Ventura – Life Imitates Art [REBROADCAST]"

On Episode 119 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Grand Junction, in the landing pad of Mayan Smith-Gobat, to interview young alpinist and free climber, Brette Harrington. Oft mistaken for a Canadian because of her ties to Squamish, this young American climber has been lighting up in climbing media with tales of audacious solos … Continue reading "Episode 119: Brette Harrington – Go Your Own Way"

On Episode 118, I sit down with consummate mountain man, Conrad Anker. Recorded before his recent brush with the reaper (see below), Conrad was already all too familiar with tragedy in the mountains. A protégé of the late Mugs Stump, and goto partner of the fallen Alex Lowe, Conrad has been through the dark valley more … Continue reading "Episode 118: Conrad Anker – You’ve Come Far, Pilgrim."

On Episode 117, I sit down in a La Quinta Inn in Rifle, Colorado (the town, not the climbing area) with Heather Weidner. Heather and I nerd out on the process it took for her to do the first female ascent of China Doll (5.14R) sans bolts. Then we go deeper. After sending the multi-year … Continue reading "Episode 117: Heather Weidner – The Life of Try."

On Episode 116, I sit down with big wall badass ans speed climber, Dave Allfrey. His endless psyche and skills-to-pay-the-bills has made Dave one of the go-to guys in the Sierra and beyond when moving fast and safe is on the menu. Dave’s years on SAR and mentorships from some of the best has made … Continue reading "Episode 116: Dave Allfrey – Psyched and Solid."

On Episode 115 of the Enormocast, boulderer Paul Robinson sits down for a great talk about process. It turns out that puberty was all it took for Paul Robinson to become great. Well, that and 10,000 hours breathing BO and chalk dust in a gym. But more than that, Paul talks about relentless positivity, embracing … Continue reading "Episode 115: Paul Robinson Loves to Fail."

On Episode 114 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Black Diamond’s Climbing Category Director and former Director of Quality, Kolin Powick. Episode 114 is filled with science and nerds out on gear. We start specifically with Black Diamond’s recent recalls, but then we move into gear issues generally. Myths, misconceptions, mistakes are all discussed. … Continue reading "Episode 114: Kolin Powick uses SCIENCE to keep you ALIVE!"

On Episode 113, I finally move Rob Pizem from his on-deck status to current guest after saving him for a rainy day for a few years. Pizem, AKA Piz, manages a “normal” life in Grand Junction, Colorado and still climbs really hard. I try to glean the magic of how to have it all: a job(s), kids, … Continue reading "Episode 113: Rob Pizem – The Time is Now."

On Episode 112, I sit down with crack master Jean-Pierre, AKA Peewee, Ouellet. This one is for the crack nerds- the folks for whom the difference between a ring-lock and a finger-stack can be an all night, booze fueled debate, and JP delivers. We learn about his very specific approach to hard crack “collecting”. JP … Continue reading "Episode 112: Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet – The Collector."

On Episode 111 of the Enormocast, I sit down with rock climber and genuine good guy, Brad Gobright. This lighthearted “kid” approaches climbing the gnar with joy and stoke, but don’t let that fool you – he’s got the eye of the tiger and skills of the ninja. Brad has been quietly crushing first free … Continue reading "Episode 111: Brad Gobright – High Class Dirtbag."

On Episode 110 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a seedy hotel in SLC with a very Zen Cheyne Lempy. Cheyne had just returned from a session with Rock Warrior Way‘s author, Arno Ilgner, and was feeling absolutely himself. Cheyne instantly unloads about his trip to Baffin depicted in his film, Haywire. His first … Continue reading "Episode 110: Cheyne Lempe – Finding His Way."

On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin’ during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around … Continue reading "Episode 109: Chelsea Rude – Can She Suffer? Yes, She Can."

On Episode 108 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio in Rifle Mountain Park with Joe Kinder. Joe grew up in New England where he joined a crew of hotshot sport climbers that included Tim Kemple, Luke GOMEZ Parady, and Dave Graham. Self-described as the weakest of that band, Joe has nevertheless … Continue reading "Episode 108: Joe Kinder – Working for it."

On Episode 107 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an office in Carbondale with expedition climber, explorer, and super-dad, Mike Libecki. Mike was once just a Yosemite climbing- bum like so many before him, but then he found expedition climbing and his fate was … Continue reading "Episode 107: Mike Libecki – Passion for Adventure."